Growing Shiso Leaves in Pots

One of the first-time plants that I'm growing is shiso. It’s an herb I’ve enjoyed eating and cooking with for a long time, but it isn’t always available. I once did a guest chef engagement with a friend and a dish he planned on serving called for shiso. When we got to the Japanese market, shiso was out of stock and he was forced to use a different herb that was less than ideal. That was quite a few years ago, so perhaps it's more reliable to find here in NYC, but this has inspired me to try growing shiso leaves in pots on my balcony this year.

So what is shiso anyway?

Shiso is an herb with origins in China, but is now most commonly associated with Japanese cuisine since being introduced to Japan in the 8th or 9th century. Perhaps the most recognizable member of the perilla family, its unique flavor can be hard to describe.

Shiso is often described as “Japanese mint.” While the two plants are related, this description doesn’t quite describe its flavor. While the texture of the leaves resembles mint, shiso leaves are bigger and the flavor is more complex. It has been described as having notes of citrus, cinnamon, anise, eucalyptus, cumin, and cilantro, but it has a flavor unlike anything and must be smelled and tasted to truly appreciate its uniqueness.

The many varieties of the perilla leaf. What are the differences?

There are different varieties of perilla leaf and while there are similarities among them, they are not ideal substitutes for each other. For this post, I’m only referring to the Japanese Green Shiso plant. That is the most common variety and what anyone is likely referring to when they mention shiso.

There’s also a red leaf variety which has similar flavors, but is more commonly used as a coloring agent. This is what gives umeboshi plums their characteristic dark pink color. There’s also the Korean perilla variety, also known as kkaennip or sesame leaf (no relation to actual sesame). I’ve grown that herb for years, but the flavors are a bit earthier and not a great substitute for the Japanese shiso.

How to grow shiso in pots

All varieties of perilla can be very easy to grow, and growing shiso leaves in pots is no exception. In my experience, shiso seeds can be slow to germinate, so you might want to buy already-started seedlings if you can find them. I had a feeling that shiso seedlings weren't going to be easy to find, so I bought some seeds online. I germinated them indoors in peat pellets while the weather was still cool, then transplanted them to a large container outside once the danger of cold night temperatures had passed.

A 6-inch deep pot is fine for starting a single plant, but I put several together in a large 5 gallon container. Shiso likes full sun and slightly moist soil, so water it a little bit each day. Just like mint, if the soil gets dry you will notice the leaves start to go limp fairly quickly. If that happens, just give it a good soaking and it should perk right up.

Once you notice the leaves getting bigger, the plants should start growing exponentially and you’ll have a full harvest ready in just a few weeks. It’s no wonder that some places consider perilla an invasive species! To harvest, just cut the leaves when they mature as needed. They will keep growing back and you will have more shiso than you know what to do with.

How to use shiso in cooking

In Japanese cuisine, shiso is traditionally used to garnish a wide variety of dishes from sashimi to noodles and more. Since it has such a unique and delicious flavor, I like to incorporate it into a wide variety of dishes, both sweet and savory. Think of it as another leafy herb, like mint or basil, that you can put in just about anything.

Here are a few suggestions:

• Mix it into a bowl of fresh fruit. Simply cut the leaves into fine julienne strips and mix into a bowl of freshly cut ripe melons. I like this best with cantaloupe or watermelon.
• A classic combination is shiso and rice. A simple way to enjoy this unique herb is just to finely chop shiso leaves and mix them into a bowl of white rice with a touch of salt or soy sauce. You can top this with many things, but a traditional choice would be umeboshi plums and sesame seeds.
• Shiso pesto? Why not? It’s hard to go wrong with a tasty green herb puree. Try blending your shiso leaves with a touch of garlic and ginger, some pine nuts, and olive oil with a touch of sesame oil. Go ahead and add parmesan cheese if you want. This would be a great match for some seared scallops or salmon.
• Create an infused syrup. Interestingly, the flavor of shiso changes slightly when infused into a liquid. It loses some freshness, but intensifies the other flavor notes. This is perfect for an infused simple syrup. Just bring equal parts sugar and water to a simmer with roughly chopped shiso leaves, then strain and chill. Use this in flavored seltzers or cocktails.
• Make fresh shiso sorbet. For dessert, I’ve always loved making sorbet. Just follow your favorite base recipe for making sorbet, and either use a shiso-infused syrup as described above, or blend fresh shiso into the finished base. My favorites have been pineapple-shiso sorbet, plum-shiso sorbet, and even a straight up shiso sorbet with no additions. They are all so refreshing!