If you've read any other posts from this blog, there's a very good chance that you've noticed I mention Kkaennip, or Korean perilla, quite a bit. Perilla was one of the first plants I successfully grew in containers on my balcony, but many people aren't familiar with this herb. Allow me to introduce how to grow and use perilla leaves. It's delicious, healthy, and easy to grow. Perilla may not be well-knwon, but for our family, it is indispensable as a garnish. If you love Korean food as much as we do, you might be tempted to grow it yourself!
What is the Korean perilla plant?
Botanically, the name for kkaennip is Perilla frutescens. It's also sometimes called sesame leaves, beefsteak plant, and Korean mint. All Perilla plants are classified in the Lamiaceae family, although it's also sometimes included in the mint family. If you ask a Korean person to describe its flavor, they may simply respond by saying that the taste is “very Korean.” 1 Despite its origins in South and Southeast Asia, kkaennip has become most associated with Korean cuisine since the 7th century when it began to be widely cultivated.
My first encounter with perilla
The first perilla I ever tried was from my father-in-law’s garden. One summer as we were about to eat Korean BBQ, he came in from his garden with a bowl of freshly picked lettuce, as he often did. But this time, I noticed something else in there too. The leaves looked a bit like shiso, which I was well acquainted with, but I was told that it was not the same.
There may only be a few times in our adult lives when we actually get to experience a truly new flavor. This was one of those times for me. Initially, I can’t say I thoroughly enjoyed it as the taste was slightly bitter and unfamiliar, but it quickly grew on me. When barbecued meat is wrapped in a perilla leaf along with lettuce, garlic, and ssamjang, the perilla brings all the flavors together. Since then, it's hard to have Korean BBQ without it, which is why we now grow it every year.
How to grow perilla leaves in pots
Much like other members of the Lamiaceae family, perilla is very easy to grow. Depending on your perspective, this can be either a good or bad thing. While Koreans all over the world prize it as a crop, many others consider it an invasive species and a pest. It can take over a garden and other outdoor spaces in much the same way mint can. It's also been found to be toxic to cattle, so in areas with cattle populations, perilla has earned a bad reputation. But these factors make perilla perfect for container gardening.
I grew this year's perilla plants using seeds that I saved from last year’s crops. After many harvests, I allowed the plants to flower and form seed pods, letting them dry completely while still on the plant. I then cut the seed pods and stored them in a closed brown paper bag for an additional 3-4 weeks.
At this point, I shook the seeds from their casings. This isn't difficult to do, but somewhat time-consuming. I then put them in an airtight container and kept them in the refrigerator until spring. When it came time to germinate, I did a quick paper towel test to make sure the seeds were actually viable. They were! I soon saw tiny sprouts. I germinated the rest of the seeds indoors in peat pellets.
After transplanting them into their container on the balcony, they began to grow exponentially once the weather warmed up. At this point in the season, I’ve had many bountiful harvests with no signs of slowing down. Perilla plants are low maintenance: keep the soil damp but not too wet and prune the tops occasionally to encourage new growth. When harvesting, cut the top leaves from each stem along with any larger leaves and the plant should replenish itself within just a few weeks.
How to use perilla leaves
Ssambap (Ssam)
The most popular way to eat perilla leaves is Ssambap, or just Ssam for short. Ssam means “wrap” in Korean and it describes how barbecued meat is wrapped with rice and condiments in fresh greens. This once homestyle dish is very popular in Korean restaurants and now might be the favorite way to enjoy BBQ. As I mentioned earlier, perilla really take this to the next level. Since they can be hard to find in your local Asian markets, I strongly suggest growing your own in containers and trying it yourself!
Salads and cold noodles
Mix them into a salad. It sounds simple, but when sliced into julienne strips, perilla leaves can really elevate any salad. I prefer it with mixed baby greens and snap peas in a sesame-based vinaigrette. We also love it as a garnish to cold noodles. If you’re feeling extravagant, try recreating this sashimi salad from one of our favorite Korean restaurants in Queens. Top baby greens with generous amounts of tuna, salmon, and whitefish sashimi. Dress the salad in a slightly spicy gochujang sauce. So good!
Stir-fried Kkaennip Side Dish
If you’ve been to a good Korean restaurant, you may know that Korean cuisine is all about the side dishes, or banchan. Try making this one: Kkaennip Namul. It's especially good if you have a lot of perilla on hand. Blanch the leaves in boiling water for no more than 30 seconds. Drain and squeeze out any extra water before quickly stir-frying with a little soy sauce, perilla or sesame oil, and garlic.
Korean Stews
Mix it into your favorite Korean stew. Whatever kind of jjigae or tang you’re cooking, a bit of chopped perilla mixed in will give it an extra punch of freshness and flavor. I’m thinking in particular of a hard-to-find dish I had once called Boyang Tang, or Lamb/Goat stew. Generous amounts of whole perilla leaves are added while cooking, which makes the stew rich in flavor. While I’ve never recreated that exact dish myself, I’ve used it as inspiration when cooking other classic Korean stews.
Kkaennip Jangajji
Preserve them in soy sauce. This dish is called kkaennip jangajji. It's my go-to when I have entirely too much perilla to harvest. The marinade is a mix of water, soy sauce, vinegar, and sugar, along with optional flavorings like chilies and garlic. Boil the mixture, cool it, and pour it over stacks of perilla leaves. Allow it to marinate for about a week before eating, but in theory, you can keep it for much longer. We love to eat it with BBQ or as a simple side dish to rice.
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